Posted on by strofo

Fosskamben

We started off our first full weekend in Sogndal venturing down to Kafé Krydder, a charming local haunt (or perhaps I should say the charming local haunt–I’m not certain there is stiff competition) serving filter coffee, espresso, and simple but attractive pastries and bistro-esque lunch items. I have made a point of visiting as many cafés as I can in Norway; in addition to my overt fanaticism for coffee, I also enjoy seeing how other shops function for professional purposes. It was clear this was a favorite hangout spot for good conversation and an easygoing start to the weekend, exactly as a good café should be.

Another morning of low-hanging clouds encircling the mountain.
Kafé Krydder near the city center is an enchanting gathering spot, with coffee for adults and dual trampolines next door for kids.
While I couldn’t find an explanation for this structural piece, with its proximity to the café, it was difficult not to see it as an homage to an iced coffee straw.
Colorful flowers floating in water made for simple but elegant decorations at Kafé Krydder.

After a quick stop back at home base to freshen up and correct my misguided clothing choices (it is remarkable how quickly this place ebbs from sweater weather to beach climate), we met Trude for a ride up to Fosskamben, the collection of cabins on the mountainside a short ten-minute drive from the Foss homestead. It seems silly to say given the unabating, domineering presence of the mountains surrounding Sogndal, but it is easy to forget how quickly one can reach an unobstructed view from atop any number of peaks in the area.

Our destination of interest for this jaunt was Erik and Kari’s cabin, a place of particular fame in my immediate family since my parents spent their honeymoon there in 1982, nearly entirely alone if not for the sheep that shared the mountain with them and doubled as alarm clocks in the morning. (This detail is more important than you might initially think, since the cabin did not have any electricity all those 37 years ago.)

Erik and Kari’s cozy cabin at Fosskamben is a reminder of quieter times.
It might sound a little too medieval to spend a honeymoon in an outlet-free cabin, but it’s tough to argue with the view.
The walls of the cabin are decorated with the initials of past occupants. A conspicuous “K. C.” (not pictured here) is scratched prominently to the left of the bedroom door, and while my parents deny any knowledge of the etching’s origins, I remain dubious.
Much of the decor inside the cabin pays clear homage to a bygone era, though the inside is now equipped with electricity and a television.
With today’s rapid changes in technology and civil engineering, it is often easy to feel the generational divide that separates us. So it was a rare moment to look out this window, gazing upon the same unblemished scenery my parents marveled at nearly four decades ago, knowing it is a special memory we will now share.

Our conversation with Erik, Kari, Trude and Therese flowed from casual (observations on the weather) to funny (humorous misfires when attempting to learn new languages) to serious (my grandfather’s presence at D-Day in Normandy and the all-too-familiar signs of impending global conflict that have reemerged), a feat made all the more incredible given the seemingly considerable language barrier that sometimes makes high-level conversation challenging to sustain. But there is a palpable and spirited bond between our two clans that the span of the Atlantic and the passing of many generations has not managed to sever, and it is a heartwarming thing to witness. Though I did not know these people well or really at all even a week ago, I have come to care a great deal for them, and it is easy to take interest in those you care about even when language sometimes gets in the way.

The glorious weather has also rejuvenated the local wildlife.

Sogndal appears primed to continue its unusual streak of perfect weather for the next couple of days, so we will see what mischief we can find ourselves in next. Inntil da!

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