After three and a half weeks of making memories in Sogndal, it was time for a tearful goodbye this morning. If I am honest, I managed to contain the waterworks, but it wasn’t for lack of sentimentality. (My parents were not so restrained.) But, as I strolled through the Fosshaugene Campus to grab one last cup of coffee in Sogndal, and as I gazed out from the viewing platform overlooking the Foss orchard and so many of the places and people we’ve delighted in meeting during our visit, I was comforted that, while I felt tremendous sadness, it was not intermingled with any regret. I committed to pushing myself outside my comfort zone on this trip, and I am proud to have honored that commitment during my time in Sogndal. So, while I will deeply miss the people with whom I formed so many great relationships, I am soothed to know that I sincerely feel that I made the best of this experience, and my grieving is tempered by contented gratification.
On our way out of town, we made an important stop to bid farewell to Arnor and Kari, who have treated us with uncommon generosity during this entire visit. They have hosted us at their home countless times, served us immense amounts of food, and provided me personally with more coffee than should likely be legal. I cherish the relationship I have built with both of them. At first, I wasn’t sure how to define our connection: I am younger than their children, but older than their grandchildren, so I fall somewhere within a generational gray area. But, eventually, I came to the conclusion that it wasn’t important to define the bond within those terms. What is important is that I greatly admire both of them, and I am profoundly better for knowing them. I hope I was able to adequately express my appreciation during our adieus.
Marit was kind enough to drive us to our next destination in Norway–Lavik, a quiet, coastal town along the Sognefjord near the western edge of the country–where we now sit with Bjørg and Hege Foss, two more members of the considerable family tree. Both women were part of the group who visited our family in Madison when I was very young, but, as 27 years have passed since that visit, there has been a fair amount of change to discuss.
Bjørg’s home is like a fantasy out of a coastal living magazine. Her yard is a curated masterpiece of colorful flowers and other plant life, with gorgeous wooden platforms winding effortlessly in between, connecting her house with several other smaller guest rooms and cabins that are detached from the main living space. And I have never seen a property so close to the water; I am certain you could use the walkways as a literal diving board if the spirit moved you.
Bjørg and Hege have kept the hospitality streak we’ve encountered here alive, providing ample opportunities to munch, caffeinate, and munch some more. Hege’s canine sidekick, Bonnie, has also buoyed the gathering with her affection, sparing no opportunity to greet, accept fond ear scratches, and cuddle. (And also to enjoy her new American chew toy.)
Early in the day’s conversation, we opened the lid on a subject of some notoriety between my father and many of the Norwegian Foss relatives. A growing contingent of local Fosses have insisted repeatedly–often citing curiously specific details and memories–that my father visited Norway some time in 1993 or 1994, and paid a visit to Sogndal during that time. He has vehemently denied the claim, maintaining that he has neither recollection nor photographic evidence of any such visit. But Hege kept the receipts. To our delight, she produced a home video from 1993 showing a man present at a May gathering of the Foss family, clearly looking and sounding suspiciously like Kurt Foss. The smoking gun was at last uncovered.
With the damning evidence submitted for the group’s review, Papa was forced to admit defeat, and now turns his attention to the new task of unraveling the mystery of the visit in question. Why does a professional photographer–whose most filmed subject is Norway–possess no photos documenting this particular sojourn? How are his memories of other visits so clear, yet so absent for the time under consideration? Just how much aquavit did he have in 1993?
We will spend one more day with Bjørg and Hege before we board a boat to our final destination, Bergen, where we will close our Norway adventures. I look forward to spending some further time with these two family members who have already proven their good humor (and sleuthing skills), and to stealing just a little more time to enjoy this absolutely insane view. Until next time!
Where the Waterfalls Mean Home 