Sognefjord Kaffibrenneri

Our social meters beginning to redline after some days of back-to-back house visits, my dad and I made the necessary decision to lay a little low this morning and knock off some low stress activities that had been on the backburner.

We’ve seen multiple stavkyrkjer on this trip, so a visit to the specimen in Kaupanger was not necessarily a priority; but, since the church is perched directly beside the local harbor that features some tremendous views, we at least had the opportunity to kill two birds with one stone. One distinguishing factor of this particular church, and its accompanying cemetery, is that many of the family names featured on the gravestones were more familiar to us, being so much closer in proximity to Sogndal. And the site of the church featured a peculiar addition to a building with a nearly 900-year-old history: a trim of barbed, electric wire, evidently there to protect the church from the local ruffians (deer).

Next stop: AMFI Sogningen. The local mall isn’t hard to picture if you’ve seen the American prototype. We’ve already stopped here a few times to grab some items we mistakenly left behind at home (I’m now 2 for 2 on forgetting that European electrical outlets are different), but the time had come to pick up some trinkets for friends and family and our eventual return. Regrettably (but perhaps intentionally?) I chose to condense my needs for this trip into a single carry-on suitcase, which has left me scant room for any additions. But, of course, where there’s a will, there’s a way–and I will need to muster at least a little ingenuity to make space for some mementos from the next destination on our list.

For much of this pilgrimage to Sogndal, I have played the role of listener while my dad expounds upon the various histories of past and present family members. But today was my turn to play expert. Sognefjord Kaffibrenneri started its operations in Sogndal in 2017, roasting coffee out of a small, unassuming house on Fjørevegen with a spectacular view of the Sognefjord. Today, I was able to arrange a visit with Kjetil Russenes, the owner and head roaster of the operation, who graciously took time out of his day to share a cup of brew with me and give me a little background on his time in the coffee industry.

The roastery itself looked exactly as I expected: filled with large burlap bags of green coffee, copious mailing labels and bagging materials, a variety of brewing equipment, all flanking the centerpiece of the operation: the Diedrich IR-12 roasting machine that powers the entire enterprise. Kjetil’s accomplishments might be unexpected for a roaster from a small, fjordside town in rural Norway. Just last week, he qualified for the national roasters championship as one of the final six who will compete to represent Norway in the international championship in Taiwan in November. I understood why on the first taste of his natural Ethiopian, a symphonic cup with blackberry and honey notes.

I enjoyed learning about Kjetil’s entry into the roasting business (he, like many roasters, I know, took something of a “learn as you go” approach, buoyed by the tutelage of established mentors in the field), the difference between American and European importing practices, the contrast in consumer preferences between Norway and the United States, and his general roasting philosophy. It was a treat and an honor to brew coffee for him (I am rarely nervous when serving coffee, but today was an exception!). I am especially grateful that he made time in his schedule to have a conversation with a random stranger from the United States who called out of the blue asking to see his roastery. He certainly didn’t owe me the experience, but I was happy indeed to receive it. I hope to cheer him on at the SCA finals in Taiwan!

To salute our final weekend in Sogndal, my dad and I shared a slightly elevated (wink wink, Lionheart) meal at La Pergola, the flagship Italian restaurant at the local hotel. Our meal featured nods to all of our ancestral and contemporary homes: glasses of Pinot Noir (Oregon), cheese (Wisconsin), and ox filet (Norway), as well as an enviable view of the Foss family waterfall from our tableside window. We aren’t quite ready to leave yet, but our departure is an eventual reality we must begin to process, and it’s a little easier to do with a glass of wine and a chocolate tart.