It's 4:00 in the morning here in my hotel room in Oslo. What a joy to write that sentence. It feels surreal to be back in this country, and while the meat of our adventure is yet to begin, I am already reliving some of the simple delights that accompany being here. Yesterday's travel gauntlet, …
The Art of Waiting
If you ask my mother, patience is not one of my strongest suits. (Thanks, Mom.) But today's travel gauntlet, I suspect, would test anyone's resolve. My day began at 3:45 a.m. (a tip of my hat to Ben, who moonlit as my chauffeur this morning) with a flight out of Portland, led into a nearly …
To Sogndal, and Beyond
As I watched the city of Bergen, Norway fade into the background on October 1, 2019, I felt a profound sense of melancholy. This was an unexpected mood for my departure, given I had just completed what would eventually prove to be the single most transformative experience of my lifetime. But back home—at the time, …
Where the Waterfalls Mean Home 