Jostedal: The Redux

Jostedalsbreen--the Jostedal Glacier--is the largest glacier on the European continent and cuts across a large swath of mountain just an hour north of Sogndal. The evolution--and, more recently, the quickening liquification--of the glacier plays a critical role in the natural ecosystem of the surrounding Jostedal valley. One particular example of this is memorialized along the …

Loquacious Lærdal

With another day of steady rain limiting our list of potential outings, we decided to add another stavkyrkje to our conquests, this time in Borgund, southeast of Sogndal. The Borgund church was built sometime between the 12th and 13th centuries and features seven tiers with dragon-themed accents at its gables. Contrasted against the Ornes construction, …

Rainy Reunions

At long last, as we knew it eventually would, our unseasonable streak of sunny skies came to an end today. But the gloom can only do so much to dull Sogndal's charm. The city, as well as the countryside that surrounds it, takes on a different--but no less striking--mood when blanketed in mist. I can't …

The Battle of Fimreite

In 1184, a highly consequential naval battle took place at Fimreite, located just across the fjord to the southwest of Sogndal. Two kings--Magnus Erlingsson and Sverre Sigurdsson--clashed in a bloody affair resulting in the deaths of at least 2,000 men, including Magnus himself, cementing Sverre's claim as the sole ruler of Norway. The result of …

Du MÃ¥ Eta, Kar!

There's something about waking up in Sogndal that really eases the mind. Perhaps it's the imagination-defying view of the sunrise over the fjords. Perhaps it's the lack of responsibility that I enjoy while here (although, amusingly, I've been waking up earlier than I do in the United States, even though my job requires early rises). …

To Friends, Old and New

It has become a recurring theme on these trips to Norway to have days that feel like they began four days ago--a sentiment only increased, I suspect, by having started the day in a different city. When my dad and I boarded flight Widerøe en-fire-ni in Oslo headed to Sogndal this morning, I think we …