My trek to Japan began at 3 a.m. PDT on Saturday, August 16, and concluded around 1:30 p.m. on Sunday, August 17, Tokyo local time. I’ve largely lost any tether to the reality of time and space and feel like I barely know what planet I’m on. But I made it.
Longtime readers will delight to know that the long-standing tradition of members of the Foss household conning their way into first class on long, international flights is alive and well. Following Air Canada’s theatrics (a generous word) that forced me to rebook new flights—not once, but twice—Delta offered me an upgrade to Premium for a comically low price, and who would I be to deny them? Listen, airlines: if you’d like me to be excessively comfortable and drink prosecco on your flights, I am only happy to oblige.
Paresh’s plane left the United States from Seattle about six hours after my departure from Los Angeles, and while I couldn’t help but maintain my chronically-online presence even in the air (something I am old enough to still be shocked by the ability to do every single time), I was unsurprised that Paresh opted for a disconnected style. To each their own, friend. See you in Tokyo.

My initial taxi ride to our Airbnb was not my most graceful work. Having failed to parse and follow my host’s directions for public transport via bus or train, I hopped in a cab out of mild desperation. This would be my first test of many to come centered around the language barrier that has admittedly caused me some premeditated anxiety coming into this trip. I mentally agonized over the impending exchange of words that would necessarily have to occur at the conclusion of the ride. But, following my deliverance of arigato gozaimasu to the driver, his taken-aback smirk of surprised gratitude was enough to melt about 85% of my built up nerves. It’s a bit silly, frankly, for me to have been feeling this type of stress, As part of my weekly hosting duties for the Spanish Conversation Table in college, I spent a lot of time reassuring new language learners that it was their effort, not their correctness or fluency, that mattered to native speakers. Sometimes we should take our own advice.
As the first surveyor on the scene in Shinjuku, I accepted the charge of getting a lay of the land outside of our Airbnb (which, as an aside, has the world’s most aggressive air conditioning. I am not complaining.). I took off on foot and quickly discovered that the ubiquity of 7-Elevens and vending machines noted by previous visitors I’ve spoken to is no exaggeration. They are everywhere and, perhaps more interestingly, anywhere. I spied machines plunked seemingly randomly between residential apartments and with apparent disregard to the level of foot traffic passing through a given corridor. Others were placed in more obvious locations that were far more well trodden. While I have yet to experience my inaugural vending machine purchase, I am sure it will come soon enough.
Let’s not sugarcoat it: it is hot. Yes, those of you who said we were a little crazy for choosing August for our visit might have been right. This trip is going to require careful management of physical resources and hydration levels, ample sunscreen and shade, and constant attention to a balance of indoor and outdoor activities. But I am undeterred. I came equipped with what I am confident is the right arsenal of clothing and gear for the conditions and I have been walking a lot in the Portland sun and heat in preparation for this trip—something for which I felt immediately grateful as I stepped out for my first stroll around in 94° humidity this afternoon. It’s worth noting that I was flabbergasted by the number of people walking around in full pants, long sleeves, the whole deal. Unflappable, these people.
I am soon off to meet Paresh following his landing and I am sure we will head out to find a spot for dinner while we attempt to battle jet lag. I doubted my ability to stay up to write following any such endeavor, so we’ll call this first entry here for now. I suspect I’ll have better pictures (food!) tomorrow and beyond. It remains to be seen what my best writing schedule is going to look like—it may be that midday updates work well as a method to keep us out of the hottest portion of the day. Anyway, arigato gozaimasu for reading and more to come soon.

domo c: